During our last full day on the river, we would travel nearly 50 miles, eating lunch on the boat. After several days of relative solitude, we encountered many other boats, some of which had left at the same time we did. Our stop at Havasu Canyon (mile 157) resembled Coney Island on a hot summer day. Havasu Creek has carved a natural tunnel in the canyon wall, which you must pass through to get to the best swimming hole.
Towards the end of the day, we encountered parts of the canyon that had been subjected to extensive volcanic activity several million years ago. The usual reds and browns of the canyon walls were sometimes replaced by hard, black basalt. We knew that our final destination was near - Lava Falls - the biggest rapids on the Colorado. We stopped just before the falls and checked it out under the shadow of a massive black wall of igneous rock. The austerity of the setting seemed to add an edge to the anxiety that many of us were feeling. We exchanged cameras with another boat, and then took to the river.
Lava Falls delivered as advertised. As we huddled in the bottom of the boat, the waves smashed into us, twisting and turning, dropping us into holes, pushing us forward. A few seconds later it was over. During much of the day, many of us were feeling fatigued. After the adrenaline rush of Lava, that feeling was quickly forgotten.
After retrieving our
cameras, we proceeded a few miles downriver, where we made our
final camp. It seemed that each campsite was more amazing than
the next, and this one was perhaps the most instructive. At Hells
Hollow, we could see where a spectacular lava flow had nearly
filled a side canyon. There are few places where you can see the
power of a volcano so clearly. As evening fell, I lay on my cot,
staring at this frozen remant of a cataclysm.
The next morning, we turned in our gear and prepared to make our goodbyes. After our final meal, we assembled for the obligatory photo shoot. A short trip downriver brought us to the heleport, and before long we were separated forever, our trip at an end.
